The Cuyahoga River caught fire at least thirteen times before the June 1969 blaze that reached national television. Sparks from a passing train fell onto an oil slick beneath the Norfolk and Western railroad trestle. The flames were out in under thirty minutes. Their afterlife was far longer: the fire helped push the Clean Water Act of 1972 through Congress and handed the new Environmental Protection Agency a founding image. Cleveland boat cruises now trace that same water, and the river's own history has become the substance of the narration. The name descends from an Iroquoian word early mapmakers wrote as Cayagaga, the crooked river. The description is literal. Across its last navigable miles the channel doubles back on itself again and again, and lake freighters more than 600 feet long negotiate turns that were straightened and widened by dredging in the 1930s after repeated groundings at Collision Bend. The Ohio and Erie Canal, completed in 1832, tied this harbor to the Ohio River and converted a frontier settlement into a transshipment point. Iron ore from Minnesota's Mesabi Range met Appalachian coal at these docks. John D. Rockefeller built his first refineries on the banks here and incorporated Standard Oil in 1870. By the turn of the century the Flats held shipyards, foundries, salt wells and paint works, and the water carried the runoff of all of them. The river remains a working one, which is what separates a Cuyahoga River sightseeing tour from a harbor circuit anywhere else. Vertical-lift and bascule bridges still rise for cargo. The steel works upstream still pours. Above the channel stand the Detroit-Superior Bridge, opened in 1918 with a lower deck built for streetcars, and the 708-foot Terminal Tower, completed in 1930 and the tallest building outside New York City for the following thirty-four years. Cleveland boat cruises tours pass beneath every one of them, then swing out past the breakwall into open Lake Erie, where the skyline finally resolves into a single silhouette. Recovery came slowly and unevenly. Great blue herons returned to the lower river in the 1990s. Bald eagles nested near Whiskey Island. In 2019, fifty years after the fire, the Cuyahoga was named River of the Year by American Rivers, and state agencies eased long-standing advisories on eating its fish. The lakefront transformed alongside it. I. M. Pei's glass pyramid for the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame opened at North Coast Harbor in 1995, the Great Lakes Science Center followed in 1996, and the 1925 ore carrier William G. Mather sits moored nearby as a museum ship, a working relic of the trade that built the city. A Cleveland boat cruises tour reads as one continuous document of that sequence: canal, ore, oil, fire, statute, heron. The water at 825 East 9th Street Pier looks ordinary. It is not.